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Taoyuan Dim Sum

Now closed

607-546-3360

Although there’s a beautiful pricey steak – Creekstone Farms rib eye in a tenderizing marinade of fresh papaya and soy, the real draw for the neighborhood is the stuff that’s most recognizably Chinese, given the dearth of good Sino restaurants nearby.

Great Sun Garden

Now closed

212-542-8828

For some, Jing Fong might be intimidating: It’s marked by giant escalators, a vast dining room and walkie-talkie–toting waiters marshalling diners. But it has remarkable dim sum.

Wok Szechuan Diner

Now closed

845-402-7063

The expansive, opulent restaurant is dramatically outfitted in black banquettes, pink-clothed tables and illuminated, golden dragons that wrap around the perimeter of the dining room.

Shanghai Dragon

Now closed

607-862-0697

That Chinatown passage bore witness to the grisly havoc of the Tong gang wars, but the bakery and tea shop had a sweeter reputation: Its almond cookies and moon cakes were legendary.

Hohhot Dim Sum

Now closed

631-778-1842

Dressed in farm-to-table drag with potted plants in the windows, blond wood pillars and gingham booths, the place could easily pass for another seasonal New American restaurant.

El Torero

Now closed

607-258-3773

Enrique Olvera’s elegant high-gear small plates—pristine, pricey and market-fresh—more than fills that gap in New York dining. It steamrolls right over it.

Nakamura's Sushi

Now closed

917-775-1031

At this 20-seat sushi counter from rock-star chefs Jimmy Lau and Nick Kim—formerly of Neta—a cool $135 prompts an omakase chef's selection) of exceptionally made edomaezushi served in its purest form, each lightly lacquered with soy and nestled atop a slip of warm, loosely packed rice.

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Taoyuan Dim Sum

Great Sun Garden

Wok Szechuan Diner

Shanghai Dragon

Hohhot Dim Sum

El Torero

Nakamura's Sushi

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